I met Tony outside of a coffee shop Bandon. He used to operate cable cars in San Francisco, but was now retired on the  much more calm and relaxing Oregon coast. photo (9)We shot the breeze for a little bit and talked about San Francisco and bike touring. After I told him I was a retired ballet dancer, he told me an ex-wife of his danced with American Ballet Theater back in the day. ( What are the chances?) Tony gave me a few pointers on what roads to take to avoid the toughest hills. At one point he mentioned that there’d be a long bridge guarded by a golden bear. He told me to “slap that bear on the ass and keep ridin on towards California!”  I told Tony that I’d love to grab a beer and keep talking but I had to hit the road. After he mentioned he hadn’t had a drink in tens years I felt a little sheepish. I told him that next time I was in town we’d go grab coffee.


After a handshake and goodbye with Tony, I went to see Woody at South Coast Bicycles. I really needed to check my tire pressure and lube and clean my chain. Woody is the type of guy that keeps a few extra air-mattresses at his place so he can host touring cyclists if they run into problems out on the road. Very cool. Thanks, Woody. ( This is also where Lars purchased his infamous helmet mirror that didn’t suit him)



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Found him!

My good friend Julie ( who I was on going to meet in Marin with the rest of her family) LOVES horses. Anytime I see a horse or horses on the side of the road, I stop and photograph them for her.

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For Julie. Love, Mark


Riding through the Yurok reservation I noticed a smoked salmon store that I had to check out. The salmon is smoked on stakes surrounding a fire pit, just like it would have been done years ago. The proprietor told me to stop at the gas station if I needed anything else to go with my dinner. Apparently, It was the only other place in town to buy food. After loading up on a few gas station items that I felt would pair nicely with my salmon, I headed towards the nights campground. A few miles later I spotted 2 touring cyclists heading towards me and when I recognized it was Lars and Aaron, I thought I was heading the wrong direction. They shouted across the highway that there was no open stores further down the road and that the gas station was the only place to get dinner. I told them I already knew because I wise American Indian woman told me.


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Ass Slap Bear